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The Best Lard-Based Cookie-Cracker in Naples
Taralli ‘nzogna e pepe in Naples We were going to be late. We would miss the early train to Pompeii. We lingered at the hotel searching for breakfast satisfaction in machine-made espresso and packaged cookies. Nothing. Now, dodging cars and motorini on Naples’s cramped Via Dei Tribunali in Spaccanapoli,... Read more
How the Snakeskin Purse Gets Made
However, not all snakeskin products that reach store shelves can be traced. Many brands and stores don’t know where the python skin comes from, trade rules are easily exploited, and the illegal snakeskin trade is highly lucrative. There are also far fewer animal protection laws for reptiles, and it... Read more
Czech Garlic Bread is the Best Garlic Bread
Topinky in Prague Every year in April, the small Czech city of Pardubice hosts a small, friendly co-ed softball tournament. Teams come from Czechia, Germany, Belgium, and the U.K.—our team, a ragtag collection of players from various teams in London’s considerable number of softball leagues, a large but close-knit... Read more
The New Old Sound of Motor City
Other incidents reflect ignorance more than malice. Electronic music has a strong tradition of sampling, which got British DJ Dax J banned from Tunisia for remixing the Islamic call to prayer. Nicolas Jaar and Matias Aguayo, prominent South American producers, have spoken candidly about “exotic fetishism” in “ethno-minimal” techno,... Read more
Literally Drinking Under the Table in Guatemala
Beer in Tilapita I shaped masa into perfect spheres, squishing the dough between pieces of plastic in a tortilla press. The thin tortillas would be cooked fast and hot. Small fish we bought off a boat were frying in oil as tomatoes and cucumbers were sliced and drizzled with... Read more
Hot Dates in the Saudi Desert
The skylarks sing as they swoop and swerve in the predawn sky around date palm trees. More than two hundred miles away from the clamor of Saudi Arabia’s capital city, Riyadh, my friend Yunus and I hit the main road and race the rising sun towards the carts and... Read more
17 Incredible Places That Are Perfect For Traveling Solo
What are you waiting for? Malaysia “It was a backpackers dream. It's affordable, easy to get around, and home to cultural sights and kickass nightlife.”—elliotth4d73acaa2 Getty Images Scotland “The people are amazing. I sat down in a pub in Scotland and struck up a conversation with an older Scottish... Read more
A Storm in Germany

A Storm in Germany

Travel September 22, 2017 0

The deepest reason I didn’t fear the Nazis then was that they had no conceivable path to real power. You couldn’t even display the German flag in pride back then, much less vote for an avowed Nazi. The checks against fascism were so strong, so institutional, so ingrained, that... Read more
Learning to Fight

Learning to Fight

Travel September 20, 2017 0

A tall young man wearing a military uniform and yellow sneakers enters the dark gym. The girls run away to join other children, who have already lined up. “Good morning, commander!” they shout in unison. “The platoon is arranged!” Maksim, the 18-year-old commander of the club, says that the... Read more
A Light in the Dark

A Light in the Dark

Travel September 19, 2017 0

I remember vividly the disturbing stories Sébastien Van Malleghem told me the last time we spoke, in 2015. He was getting ready to publish Prisons, his long-term photography project about the incarceration system in Belgium, and though his images were just as haunting as his words, there was also... Read more